
I had never been to Rome, that teeming aggregation of antiquities to which all roads ostensibly, and, as it appears, inevitably lead. Eventually, that is. Years of German high school Latin, drummed into me at a school not far from the Roman outpost of Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (Cologne), did little to raise my curiosity sufficiently to make me hit one of them. Those roads, I mean, or, for that matter, any books on the destination that proved final for Daisy Miller, who caught Roman Fever traipsing around the ruins that Mr. Stone never got to see, having perished in transit so that his missus, Mrs. Stone, might experience, at his expense, the Roman Holiday of a Roman Spring.
As eternal as the standard admission lines to its main attractions, the Italian capital lingered on the bottom of what, by now, has turned into a bucket list of sights yet to see, a catalogue of places to die for that reminds me of nothing more forcefully than my ever-dwindling supply of vitality. The adage that Rome wasn’t built in a day does no longer make my inclination to take things slow seem like a virtue, much less an option.

Although I was not exactly fit as a fiddle while Rome burned in the sweltering spring of 2026—an unseasonable reminder that our insistence of ticking off items on our must-see lists might well contribute to our species kicking the bucket before long—I nonetheless returned with the nagging question why it had taken me so long to visit. So long, apparently, that everyone else decided to make the move at the same time and take over the place like a horde of goths—the latter-day sad sacks of Rome—spilling into the Forum.
It was a visit to Cinecittà—the fabled Hollywood on the Tiber—that brought back memories of many a vicarious visit to Rome, none more enchanting than William Wyler’s Ein Herz und eine Krone (“A heart and a crown”), under which title I first experienced Roman Holiday (1953) dubbed in German. Partly shot, and spectacularly so, on location, the romantic comedy was filmed at Cinecittà, as was Wyler’s 1959 epic Ben-Hur and its 2016 remake, along with countless Italian pictures, from the Telefoni Bianchi comedy romances of the Mussolini era to the fantasies of Frederico Fellini, who referred to Rome’s film studios as an “ideal place” that “replaced the world” for him.

Approaching the culture and history of Rome via the dream factory of Cinecittà—on a personal tour that, incidentally, followed news then breaking of Wyler’s daughter, philanthropist and arts patron Judith Sheldon, being found dead in her jeep, alongside her husband—comports with and is characteristic of the obliquity with which I am wont to sidle up to any subject. My idiosyncratically queer way or waywardness of sliding aslant on a scale of relative irrelevancies are expressive of my struggle to get the facts straight and my unwillingness to surrender to apodictic tyranny by accepting them as imperative, impartial and incontrovertible.
The tumble-down classicality of Rome engenders a Felliniesque retreat from factuality. The allure of ruins, at least to minds romantically inclined, lies in their state of incompletion, the presence of their partial absence. Their fragmentation and decay enable us to imagine the past, of which they are imperfectly imaged representations, and, through the peculiar interplay of art and nature, appreciate the present as evolving, not fixed. Their artifactuality thus exceeds the mere factual. No systems of classification are equal to their mystery. Would ancient civilizations have such a fascination for us if we had them all figured out?
The question is rhetorical, and it leads me in a roundabout way to When in Rome (1970), a murder mystery by Ngaio Marsh, without whose mention of it I would not have visited the Villa Giulia. The Villa houses the National Etruscan Museum, the world’s foremost collection of Etruscan art, of which the tomb effigy of Sarcofago degli Sposi—the Sarcophagus of the Spouses—is the most celebrated. It is at its feet that Marsh’s mystery opens:
Continue reading “When in Rome (1970): With Ngaio Marsh at the Villa Giulia”









